Pattes Loup: Thomas Pico’s biodynamic Chablis
Thomas Pico (Domaine Pattes Loup) returned to the family estate of Bois d’Yver in 2004. There, he took over 8 hectares of vines, which he converted to organic farming (ECOCERT 2009). Domaine Pattes Loup was established in Courgis, on the left bank of the Serein.
On the Kimmeridgian terroir of Chablis, Thomas crafts deep, textured wines. From the fruit to the minerality, his pursuit of purity is evident in wines that possess a unique brilliance.
Thomas Pico takes a meticulous approach to every plot, cultivating them organically. He refuses to use mechanical harvesters. Vinification is carried out exclusively using indigenous yeasts. A natural approach is adopted, with very little SO₂ and unfiltered wines. The wines undergo extended ageing without any alteration to their character. These are the hallmarks of the Pattes Loup estate.
In the vineyard, in the cellar
Thomas Pico takes a meticulous approach to every plot, cultivating them organically. He refuses to use mechanical harvesters. Vinification is carried out exclusively using indigenous yeasts. A natural approach is adopted, with very little SO₂ and unfiltered wines. The wines undergo extended ageing without any alteration to their character. These are the hallmarks of the Pattes Loup estate.
A few photos of Thomas Pico’s Pattes Loup estate
The Guide to the Best Wines of France ★★
Based in Courgis, Thomas Pico (Domaine Pattes Loup) has been working the vineyards since 2004, having immediately converted them to organic farming. The estate has gradually expanded and Thomas now also manages the family estate (Domaine de Bois d’Yver), from which his vines originate. Out of respect for the terroirs, he refuses to use a grape-harvesting machine, insists on working the plots by hand – situated on the left bank of the Serein (four Premier Crus) – and limits yields, unless nature takes care of it as it did in 2015, 2016 and 2017… Vinification using indigenous yeasts, and the construction of a new winery in 2014: the wines have improved rapidly. The latest vintages shine with a unique brilliance, thanks to extended ageing periods.
The wines: cool elegance and sparkling fruit in the Chablis Vent d’Ange, whose subtle texture is wonderfully balanced. We greatly appreciate the natural expression and lemony finesse of the Beauregard, with its light, flavourful body, revealing a wealth of savoury notes. Bottled in August 2019, Butteaux has undergone almost three years of ageing. The vintage’s rigour lends itself perfectly to this extended ageing; the wine has developed nuanced flavours whilst retaining a sharp, highly stimulating character, without the slightest hint of austerity. It nevertheless deserves to be given a little time to develop.