BURGUNDY
Organic, Biodynamic and Natural wines

A brief history of organic, biodynamic and natural wines in Burgundy

Burgundy is, of course, renowned worldwide for its winemaking heritage and the quality of its wines. Whilst most Burgundy wines are produced using traditional and/or conventional methods, there is also a history of organic wines in Burgundy.

Organic wines in Burgundy

The production of organic wines in Burgundy began in the 1970s, at the same time as the organic food movement started to gain momentum in Europe. It is therefore a relatively recent movement, but one that has been growing exponentially in recent years.

In 2021, the number of organic vineyards in Burgundy rose by 19% and the area under conversion by 44%. The area under organic cultivation increased from 17% to 20% of the total vineyard area, amounting to over 5,800 hectares. Whilst organic wine production in Burgundy has long seen slow and steady growth, one might wonder what has caused this sudden surge.

Organic farming: a balance between ethics and quality

Today, an increasing number of vineyards in Burgundy are producing organic wines, using more environmentally friendly methods and avoiding synthetic chemicals. Here are the main implications:

• The return to tillage, in some cases in conjunction with grass cover (weed management, promoting soil microbial activity, combating erosion)
• The pursuit of a healthy balance in the vine (particularly through the management of organic fertilisation)
• The implementation of preventive measures
• Plant protection based on organic products (copper and sulphur are permitted under the specifications)
• The complete abandonment of herbicides and synthetic products (fungicides, insecticides and fertilisers)

Boom in organic wines in Saône-et-Loire

The strongest growth is seen in Saône-et-Loire (led by the Mâconnais wines), with a 38% increase in conversions, representing 13% of the vineyard area. Behind these figures lies, of course, consumer demand, but above all a genuine awareness and a desire to improve the quality of the wines. In other words, the adoption of organic farming is not merely an ethical approach, but a genuine means of expressing the quintessence of a great terroir. The new generation is well aware of this, driven in particular by the artisan winemakers of southern Burgundy: Nicolas Maillet, Nicolas Delfaud, Jean-Marie Chaland, Julien Guillot, and many others.

Biodynamic wines in Burgundy

Whether certified or practising it on a limited basis without formally claiming the label, many Burgundian vineyards have turned to biodynamics over the last 30 years. This ecological approach to viticulture, which seeks to balance ecosystems by following the cycles of the moon, has found a place in particular at prestigious Burgundian estates, including the legendary Romanée-Conti. Among the new generation, we can also mention Thiebault Huber (Domaine Huber-Verdereau), Thomas Pico (Domaine Pattes Loup), Julien Guillot (Les Vignes du Mayne), and others.

Natural wine in Burgundy

A more recent phenomenon, natural wine is also making its mark in Burgundy. The natural wine movement in Burgundy gained momentum in the 1980s and 1990s, with the emergence of producers such as Jules Chauvet.

As a reminder, natural wines currently have no legal status and are not governed by any legislation. They are mostly made from grapes grown using agroecological, organic or biodynamic methods. Furthermore, the Association des Vins Naturels (AVN) has drawn up a set of guidelines to regulate these wines. Here are the fundamental principles:

• The grapes must be organically or biodynamically grown
• The grapes must be harvested by hand
• Only indigenous yeasts (i.e. yeasts originating from a natural environment) should be used during fermentation
• The use of harsh techniques in winemaking is prohibited (such as reverse osmosis, flash pasteurisation, etc.)
• No oenological additives are used during winemaking, with the exception of sulphur (i.e. sulphites) in very small quantities

Among the pioneers of natural wine in Burgundy are Philippe Valette, Julien Guillot, Julien Altaber, Dominique Derain, the Prieuré-Roch estate, and others.