Laurent Combier, Crozes-Hermitage
Laurent Combier is a leading figure in the Rhône wine region. Based in the heart of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, which accounts for the majority of its production, the estate enjoys a well-established international reputation.
Alongside Alain Graillot, Laurent Combier is one of the pioneers of the highly distinctive Châssis area, a terroir of excellence within Crozes-Hermitage which, thanks to their efforts, has become the epicentre of the appellation. On this clay-limestone plateau with rounded pebbles from Pont-de-l’Isère, the estate produces wines of the highest quality: harmonious, deep, fresh, refined, lively and charming.
A pioneer in organic farming since the 1970s, Domaine Combier continues to promote biodiversity in its vineyards. Every intervention in the vineyard is carefully tailored to the nature of the soil, the lunar calendar and the life cycle of the vine. It is Nature that dictates every action, not the other way round.
The spirit, approach and style of the Combier estate
At Domaine Combier, a great wine is the result of work carried out in the vineyard with the utmost respect for the terroir. For only balanced grapes can produce harmonious, deep, fresh and refined wines. There is therefore no artificial intervention in the winemaking process, and never any aggressive extraction: the fruit must come through immediately to produce joyful and charming wines.
Inspired by the finesse of Pinot Noir wines from the great Burgundy estates, the Combier family is committed to producing wines that are ‘straightforward’. Whilst each cuvée retains its own distinct style (Cuvée L, Cuvée Domaine, Cap Nord, Clos des Grives), they all share a sense of honesty and an elegant balance of fruit, aromas and tannins.
Years of practice and observation have enriched our expertise. Our overall approach always centres on Syrah, as this reductive grape variety needs time to develop fully. The work carried out in the cellar perfectly illustrates this constant quest for the very best for the wines. In 1990, Laurent Combier chose temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for the estate. In 1999, Marc Nomblot’s concrete eggs were installed in the cellar. In 2001, the new concrete vats arrived. Historically, wood (barrels or demi-muids) has always been present in the cellar for all its natural oxygenation qualities. In 2017, the cellar was expanded once again with the aim of refining the work on individual plots and ensuring that each cuvée is the perfect combination of all these choices.
History of the Combier Estate
The Combier family’s roots in the Rhône region date back to 1936. Camille, Laurent’s grandfather, moved down from his plateau in the Ardèche and bought a property in La Roche de Glun comprising 3 hectares of vines and 4 hectares of apricot trees. In the 1960s, Maurice and Paulette, Laurent’s parents, set up as farmers in the neighbouring village of Pont de l’Isère. By 1970, they were visionaries and invested all their time and money in healthy, organic farming practices, both in fruit growing and viticulture.
In 1990, Laurent Combier, together with his wife Ghislaine, took over the estate, which at the time comprised 5 hectares of vines and 15 hectares of fruit trees. Fresh from graduating in viticulture and oenology, he decided, with the support of his parents, to build his own winery for vinification and ageing. His aim was to bring his vision of Crozes Hermitage wines to fruition, reaching the pinnacle with, in particular, Clos des Grives, a wine that is now iconic within the appellation.
Twenty-five years on, David and Julien together embody their father’s energy, dynamism and passion. The elder brother, Julien, has been demonstrating his passion for the Crozes-Hermitage terroir, his viticultural practices and, above all, his winemaker’s spirit since 2014. David, the younger brother, has recently joined the estate. His experience in marketing and winemaking in the world’s leading wine-growing regions brings a fresh perspective and the drive of youth. David and Julien, supported by Laurent, are gradually taking their places at the heart of the family estate.
50 years of organic farming at the Combier estate
A pioneer of organic farming in France, Maurice Combier has always followed his convictions, even if it meant being seen as a madman. As early as 1970, whilst the wine industry was discovering the ‘benefits’ of technical progress, productivity and clones, he continued to advocate manual labour and hard work in the vineyards. Throughout his years at the helm of the estate, his priority for environmental respect and the quality of his grapes gave him a head start in becoming a role model in the Rhône Valley.
In the late 1960s, Maurice Combier developed an allergy after coming into contact with a pesticide. This incident would shape the entire course of his future life as a farmer. He began to question his methods and, one day, heard about the concept of ‘living soil’. In the winter of 1969–1970, he took the plunge and converted his farm to organic farming, which was then in its infancy. Regardless, he farmed his land as a self-taught farmer, endured difficult years (the frost of 1975, the drought of 1976) but persisted. Every mistake made was a new lesson. A pioneer and visionary, after half a century of organic farming, the Combier estate continues to pass on its family expertise from generation to generation.
Over the years, the arrival of the younger generations has led to the estate expanding its focus on viticulture at the expense of fruit growing, which now comprises just 5 hectares of apricot trees … Since 1990, Laurent has continued the work begun by his father, whilst David and Julien are, in turn, exploring ways to constantly improve their practices. All planting and replanting is carried out using mass selection to preserve the distinctive character of the grape varieties. It is all about balance and precision. Every intervention in the vineyard is tailored as closely as possible to the nature of the soil, the lunar calendar and the life cycle of the plant. It is Nature that governs every action, not the other way round.
A few photos of the estate
RVF Green Guide to the Best Wines of France
David, in the winery, and his brother Julien, in the vineyard, are increasingly taking the reins of the estate, bringing a fresh and modern perspective without compromising the essence of what makes their wines so successful. Over the years, their father, Laurent Combier, has successfully revealed the greatness of the Crozes-Hermitage terroirs on the clay-limestone plateau with rounded pebbles of Pont-de-l’Isère. By exploring new approaches to ageing in the cellar and working to develop biodiversity in the vineyards, the new generation is not resting on its laurels. Lovers of good value for money will be delighted.
The wines: in 2023, the whites achieve the remarkable feat of being both full-bodied and rich on the palate, whilst retaining structure and balance. Take, for example, the delicious Crozes L, with its notes of stone fruit and white flowers – delightful to drink now but also capable of ageing for a few years. Clos des Grives holds its own amongst the great whites of the northern Rhône Valley, delivering magnificent intensity and potential. What can be said of the reds, other than that they have once again won us over with their juicy, approachable character, without lacking depth? Whether it’s the ‘petite’ L cuvée, with its peppery notes that lend themselves perfectly to bistro cuisine, the deep and intense Clos des Grives, or the serious and perfectly structured Cap Nord, there is not a single misstep.