François Chidaine – Montlouis-sur-Loire
Does he really need any introduction? François Chidaine is now a leading figure (not to say a star) for the appellation and the entire region. A native of Touraine, this local lad never wanted to do anything other than work as a winegrower. Having settled here in the 1980s, he quickly became convinced that the excellence of his terroir, this unique heritage, could only be expressed through practices such as organic farming and biodynamics.
In the vineyard, in the cellar
François Chidaine specialises in plot-by-plot winemaking. He cultivates each plot individually and produces a wide range of cuvées. Since switching to biodynamic farming in 1999, he has been conducting numerous experiments, experimenting with plant diversity to recreate an ecosystem.
Biodynamics: a philosophy
“As a winegrower, biodynamics encapsulates my approach to working and thinking about viticulture. It is both a culmination and a quest. A culmination because this philosophy of terroir places the vine at the heart of our concerns and drives us to strive for excellence. But it is also a constant quest for higher quality and greater respect for the environment. ” – [François Chidaine]
Biodynamics goes further than organic farming and the exclusion of synthetic chemicals. It involves enhancing the soil and the vine in its natural environment using preparations made from plant, animal and mineral materials. These preparations must be applied at specific times during the annual cycle: this is the ‘dynamic’ aspect. Maria Thun’s calendar was developed based on the solar and lunar rhythms that influence the growth of the vine. Soil management through ploughing and scarification is also very important.
The challenge is to find a balance and create harmonious living conditions between the soil, the plant and the environment in order to produce a high-quality wine.
The wines of the François Chidaine estate
The Les Argiles cuvée is a Vin de France (downgraded Vouvray). A dry, mineral-driven white wine with a clear, luminous colour. Purity and elegance define this wine, which offers notes of citrus and white fruits. It has a lovely balance on the palate, finishing with a crisp, salty aftertaste.
The Montlouis Clos du Breuil perfectly embodies the refined character of the estate’s Chenin wines. The old vines growing on flinty clay soils impart pure intensity and unrivalled crispness. The Clos du Breuil boasts a clear, brilliant colour. The nose reveals notes of pear and a delicate bouquet of citrus fruits. On the palate, it strikes a balance between lovely freshness and a full-bodied fruitiness.
Montlouis Les Choisilles is a pure, mineral and refined expression of Chenin grown on Tuffeau soil. The fruity nose evokes notes of white peach and hints of exotic fruit, gradually revealing a delicate minerality. Well-balanced between a rich body and a pleasant freshness, the wine possesses a revitalising energy.
Montlouis Les Bournais offers a wonderful burst of aroma. White fruits (peach) and exotic notes. Its depth and length are surprising. The palate finishes with a salty note, full of subtlety and delicacy. One of the estate’s most iconic wines.
The Baudoin cuvée ranks among the great white wines of the Loire. Although downgraded due to murky political and administrative affairs, the wine comes from one of Vouvray’s finest terroirs. The tuffeau limestone gives this wine one of the finest expressions of Chenin in the Loire, luminous and vibrant. A wine with excellent ageing potential, it already impresses with its powerful aromas, body and depth. What a wine!
Montlouis Les Tuffeaux is a delicate (off-dry) wine of great elegance. Its sweetness is barely perceptible, such is the vigour and freshness that carry the wine. The fruity notes are enhanced by a delightful acidity and perfect balance. Ideal with turbot in a beurre blanc sauce or Asian cuisine.
Montlouis Clos Habert is a delicate (semi-dry) version of a truly delightful wine. It is richer and fuller-bodied than the Les Tuffeaux cuvée, yet retains its structure and balance. Here too, the sweetness is barely perceptible. Aromas of white fruit intertwine with hints of honey.
The Bouchet cuvée is a delicate (off-dry) version of Vouvray, even though the wine has been downgraded due to murky political and administrative issues. Notes of stony minerality mingle with aromas of acacia, honeysuckle, pineapple and quince. The wine is certainly smooth and full-bodied, yet underpinned by a sparkling, invigorating vigour. A fine example of its kind.
Produced by Alice Chidaine, the eldest daughter of François and Manuéla, the Montlouis Les Grillonnières proves to be a superb, elegant wine with remarkable balance. The very old vines, over 90 years old, produce a fine example of the style on this exceptional terroir. The aromatic richness is captivating from start to finish: yellow fruits, floral notes, lime zest… This almost sweet Montlouis wine delicately and precisely combines richness, smoothness, freshness, minerality and liveliness.
This sweet Montlouis will be perfectly suited to lovers of fine sweet wines – but not overly so. The 2016 vintage was marked by the devastating frost of 27 April and a loss of around 90%. The surviving harvest has produced a slender, precise wine, characterised by exotic fruits, particularly passion fruit. Freshness, depth and length are all present. A great wine!
This sweet Montlouis is perfect for lovers of fine sweet wines – but not overly so. The 2018 vintage is exceptionally full-bodied and rich. The aromatic profile is characterised by great complexity: quince, almond, lemon, roasted pineapple and exotic notes. Yet another demonstration of the estate’s masterful control over sweetness.
A few photos of the François Chidaine estate
