There is so much confusion surrounding the terms ‘organic wine’, ‘biodynamic wine’ and ‘natural wine’! … Beyond certifications and differences in cultivation methods, it is important not to adopt an overly dogmatic attitude towards these practices, but rather to keep an open mind so as to view each of them as a means rather than an end in itself. 

Only by taking a holistic view of each winegrower’s approach can one truly grasp the coherence of their work and understand their ‘philosophy’. Without claiming to hold the universal truth, we aim here to shed some light on the matter and untangle the key issues at the heart of this complex situation.

Conventional farming

Conventional farming remains the most widespread method to this day. Plant protection products, synthetic chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, fungicides)… almost everything is authorised by the law to combat diseases and enrich the soil. This is usually accompanied by a severe impact on the environment and living organisms, as well as soil and groundwater pollution. It’s a double whammy for consumers and wine enthusiasts, as the wine then needs to be ‘corrected’ using an impressive array of oenological products designed to ‘clean’ and standardise the wines.

Sustainable farming

The concept of ‘sustainable farming’ is the subject of a wide-ranging debate: some see it as nothing more than a marketing ploy designed to reassure consumers, whilst others view it as a first step towards organic farming. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, sustainable agriculture comprises a set of comprehensive farm management practices which aim, beyond compliance with regulations, to enhance the positive impacts of agricultural practices on the environment and reduce their negative effects, without compromising the economic viability of farms.

It is worth noting that certain organisations, such as Terra Vitis, are striving to provide transparency for consumers through a certification scheme designed to safeguard winemaking traditions, encourage innovation and protect the environment.

High environmental value: the controversy

The aim of the High Environmental Value scheme is to promote a form of agriculture that integrates and enhances biodiversity in farm management, whilst minimising the use of inputs (pesticides, fertilisers, energy, external feed, etc.). For a form of agriculture that is both self-sufficient and causes minimal damage to soil, water and air. Three progressive levels towards High Environmental Value.

• Levels 1 and 2 of the Environmental Certification for Agricultural Holdings each set out a set of requirements in the form of obligations to be met. 

• Level 3 introduces an innovation: it consists of a tool for measuring farming practices that enables the agro-ecological performance of the farm as a whole to be assessed. 

The certification covers all aspects of farm operations: crop production, livestock farming and the environmental conditions of the land and animals. Level 3 is validated through audits, which can be managed collectively at a regional level.

However, this label is highly controversial, partly because the rating system is rather lenient, and partly because there is no obligation to meet all the criteria. For example, the farm is assessed on the presence of beehives, the area covered by the main crop, the high number of crop species, animal species and endangered species, and the area of agroecological infrastructure. However, it is sufficient for these facilities to occupy more than 9% of the utilised agricultural area to earn the 10 points required, without having to worry about the other criteria! In short, the ‘high environmental value’ certification does not require a fundamental overhaul of production methods. And it partly misses the mark.

Agroecology

Agroecology is emerging as an alternative to specialised, often intensive industrial agriculture, which relies heavily on inputs and fossil fuels. Instead, it promotes biodiversity and natural processes. It aims to reduce the use of inputs (chemical fertilisers, pesticides, water) and to take biodiversity and climate change into account (resilience).

Each farmer adapts, designs and develops their farming practices according to the specific characteristics of their local area and the nature of their farm. Although there are common features across different regions or countries, there is therefore no uniformity in farming practices. Attempts have been made on several occasions to define the concept. However, there is currently no official definition.

Organic wines

Biodynamic wines

Nature & Progress

At this point, it seems important to mention a few other initiatives that operate outside the scope of European legislation, such as Nature & Progrès, which seeks to bring together professionals and consumers within a single framework. Organic farming, biodiversity, environmental and health protection, respect for the rural landscape and farm labour, a solidarity-based approach, and rigorous ethics without pandering to the market economy. For some, Nature & Progrès represents today what the ‘organic’ movement ought to be, serving to highlight the differences and conflicts of interest within that movement.

Natural wines

Conclusion

Setting aside any dogmatic approach, the artisan winemakers we champion are, above all, passionate about their land and their vines, driven by a deep respect for nature and the environment. Whether they practise organic, biodynamic, natural winemaking or sustainable viticulture, their wines are produced in the most natural way possible to highlight what defines their identity and character: THE TERROIR!