A visit to the Mouscaillo estate
A meeting with Thomas and Camille Fort at the Mouscaillo estate. An immersion in the world of agroecology in the company of two committed, free-thinking winegrowers.
There are encounters that challenge your thinking and open up new horizons in the quest for great wines and environmental protection. The time spent with Thomas and Camille Fort was one such occasion, both for the insightfulness of their words and the sincerity of their approach. These two young winemakers remind us that choosing a farming method cannot be reduced to a dogmatic adoption. A winegrower cannot do without their own experience, their own reflection and their personal journey. It is this philosophy that leads the Domaine de Mouscaillo towards agroecology and the constant re-evaluation of the choices made.
The terroir of Roquetaillade
Nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees, nestled against a limestone cliff, Roquetaillade is a small village that stands out from the rest of the Languedoc for its surprisingly cool climate. It is a true climatic crossroads: Mediterranean influences, tempered by the Corbières, blend with Atlantic influences, all moderated by the cool air flowing down from the Pyrenees.
The landscapes here are ancient: the limestone rocks date back to the Ypresian period, some 54 million years ago. Bearing witness to an ancient sea, a multitude of marine fossils with poetic names are scattered throughout these marls and limestones: Turritella figolina, Assilina leymerei, Nummulites couizensis, Nummulites exilis, Alveolina cucumiformis, Operculina subgranulosa, Turritella trempina, …
The soils here are deep: the clay-limestone soils act like sponges, retaining water and maintaining a certain level of moisture in the soil. The vines therefore do not suffer from drought.
Mouscaillo, a family of winemakers with character
Pierre and Marie-Claire Fort are originally from Roquetaillade and worked in the family vineyards during their youth. Forced to leave the Limoux region during the wine industry crisis of the 1980s, they went on to work at various estates across France.
In particular, they spent several years in the Loire Valley, where they tried their hand at making white wine. It was there that they met Didier Dagueneau, who encouraged them to return to their home region and take over the family vineyards. In 2004, they took the plunge and established Domaine de Mouscaillo, starting with just 4 hectares of Chardonnay.
Then, in 2017, Camille and Thomas (the daughter-in-law and son), who were working at INRA at the time, decided to leave the world of ecological research behind and return to the estate. Since 2020, they have been running the estate: Pierre and Marie-Claire have ‘retired’ (they have found a small vineyard in Banyuls, where they produce Collioure red and white wines).
Camille and Thomas also work with Frédéric, their brother-in-law, who used to be a butcher and delicatessen owner in the Jura. The story of Mouscaillo has ultimately been shaped by many life changes!
Vines cultivated with respect for the terroir
The aim of the Mouscaillo estate is to ensure that the full expression of the Roquetaillade terroir is reflected in its wines. This clearly involves preserving the terroir and the natural and agricultural ecosystems within the landscape. Work is carried out in accordance with the principles of agroecology. Ensuring that the vines can last as long as possible: respecting sap flow during pruning, planting density, combating wood diseases…
What is agroecology?
Thomas and Camille’s studies in ecology have led them to seek out the best ways to preserve the environment and the local terroir, whilst ensuring their vines remain healthy. To this end, they avoid a reductionist approach and strive for a holistic one. Rather than seeking a single solution to a problem, they take into account the complexity of the system and work on a wide range of different factors.
Agroecology thus offers a holistic approach that takes into account agricultural, agronomic, oenological, social and health aspects, amongst others…
Labels?
Don’t look for any labels at the Mouscaillo estate. A conscious decision has been made not to be constrained by national or even European regulations. These regulations fail to take into account the diversity of the terroirs, nor the characteristics unique to each of them.
To care for the vines as effectively as possible and protect the environment, we must constantly question our own methods. Every year is different from the last and requires a fresh approach. This involves discussing matters with other winegrowers and taking into account the latest findings from scientific research. Numerous tests are carried out, all with the aim of never taking our practices for granted.
All of these practices are regularly audited by an independent body, which awards the High Environmental Value (HVE III) certification.
Wine tasting at the Domaine de Mouscaillo
From tasting wines still maturing in barrels to those currently available in bottles, including a few older vintages, here are the highlights of the day at the Mouscaillo estate:
Blanquette de Limoux. A blend of Chardonnay (70%), Pinot Noir (20%) and Chenin (10%). Brut Nature. Aged on racks for at least 18 months. A lovely, fresh and mineral-driven sparkling wine with floral and citrus notes. The bubbles are fine, the palate is full-bodied and the acidity is delightful. Perfect for starting off an aperitif.
Harmonia, Crémant de Limoux rosé. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Brut Nature. Vinified like a white wine. Its richness and refinement are universally acclaimed. Perfect with prawns, salmon, a red fruit tart, strawberries Melba, or a strawberry soup with mint leaves.
Limoux white 2018. This wine stands out as a true benchmark for white wines from the appellation, and indeed from the whole of Languedoc. This cuvée, made from 98% Chardonnay (supplemented by a touch of Chenin and Mauzac), produces a complex, lively and mineral wine. On the palate, it is characterised by notes of pear, mirabelle plum and white flowers, which unfold into an absolutely sumptuous, briny finish. Built for long ageing, the wine can be enjoyed now, offering a multitude of gastronomic pairings.
IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude Pinot Noir 2019. A change of style at Domaine Mouscaillo with this fruity, delicate Pinot Noir, characterised by refreshing kirsch-like aromas. The structure is so slender and the tannins so refined that one would hardly guess it comes from the Languedoc. A truly fine wine that should express itself even better with a few years’ ageing.
Limoux white 2004–2011. The estate still has some older vintages in stock, which offer a better insight into this immense terroir and the wines’ ability to stand the test of time. One is constantly impressed by the preserved vigour of these old vintages and their aromatic complexity. A special mention goes to the 2004, 2006 and 2008 vintages, which call for poultry in sauce, fine fish and well-matured cheeses.
Lunch at the estate, featuring a selection of food and wine pairings
What was supposed to be a symbolic get-together over a light snack turned into a magnificent lunch prepared by the Lefort family: an omelette with wild asparagus, charcuterie, barbecued pork ribs and a selection of cheeses – all serving to demonstrate, if any further proof were needed, the incredibly wide range of food pairings that complement the Limoux wines from the Domaine de Mousccaillo. A truly wonderful occasion!
