Yves Leccia, Winemaker of the Year 2021
The great-grandson of winegrowers and an oenologist, Yves Leccia is a passionate and talented advocate of Patrimonio, the first of Corsica’s appellations to be recognised, in 1968. He made his debut in the Guide with a 1988 red and has secured yet another ‘Coup de Cœur’ with a 2017 Patrimonio E Croce. Before going on to create other IGP wines, equally ambitious and equally Corsican.
A few words about the development of the family estate?
Yves Leccia: “There have always been vineyards in the family, but it was during the time of my grandfather Napoléon, and then my father Pierre-Joseph, that the estate became exclusively dedicated to wine production. The island grape varieties were planted alongside other, more productive ones, such as Ugni Blanc and Cinsault. Our main outlets were the cantines (Editor’s note: taverns) in Bastia, followed by the wine trade. My father was involved in setting up the Patrimonio cooperative, but left it fairly quickly. He also worked hard to gain recognition for Corsican wine in the 1970s. Taking over the estate was for me a goal, a duty and an act of activism: to demonstrate that one could live and work with dignity in Corsica and produce good wines there. I ran the family estate with my sister for nearly 25 years. The difficulties of succession, and the desire to build something for my children with my wife Sandrine, led me in 2005 to establish our current estate.”
What is the current state of the property?
Yves Leccia: “Of the 16 hectares, 6 are planted with Niellucciu, 3 with Grenache, 1 with Sciaccarellu and the same amount with Minustellu. For whites, we have 3.5 hectares of Vermentinu, 1 of Biancu Gentile and half a hectare of Muscat for natural sweet wines, though we don’t produce these every year; some is vinified dry and blended with Vermentinu in the Biancu Marinu cuvée. Biancu Gentile produces a white wine that is richer, fuller-bodied, honeyed and more ‘gastronomic’ than Vermentinu. For reds, the Minustellu brings plenty of colour, few tannins and a lovely roundness, and pairs very well with the more austere Niellucciu. 2017 was the year we achieved organic certification: a process that was more administrative than technical, as we were already ‘on track’, both in the vineyard and in the cellar.”
What is the difference between your Patrimonio and your IGP wines?
Yves Leccia: “The red Patrimonio is built around Niellucciu for its structure, depth and potential. As an IGP, the O Bà! cuvée is warmer and more charming; the blend of grape varieties, which adds complexity, may well be the future of Patrimonio. The white Patrimonio is all about purity, minerality and the integrity of Vermentinu, with an incomparable floral bouquet. The IGP YL, which includes a proportion of Biancu Gentile, is more immediate and delicious.”
Have you changed the way you make wine?
Yves Leccia: “Yes, of course. Firstly, through a better grasp of the craft, and secondly, through the blend of grape varieties, which has changed. My tastes have changed too: I’m moving towards more refined wines, with a focus on respecting the terroir and the expression of the grape variety. When it comes to ageing in wood, I still have a lot to learn, especially as it’s not part of our region’s tradition.”