A visit to Lucien Aviet’s Caveau de Bacchus (Arbois)
Perched above Arbois, the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures is a must-visit for all Jura enthusiasts. Firstly, because this terroir is rightly regarded as the Mecca of Trousseau. But also because it is home to a number of great winemakers such as Stéphane Tissot, Jacques Puffeney and the late Lucien Aviet. It is at the latter’s estate that my journey stops today, now known as the Caveau de Bacchus.
Lucien and Vincent Aviet: the enlightened tradition of the Caveau de Bacchus
A leading figure in the Jura wine region who passed away in May 2021, Lucien Aviet established his estate in 1960 in Montigny-lès-Arsures, above the village of Arbois. It became known as the Caveau de Bacchus when his son Vincent joined him in the 1990s. It is now Vincent who, working alone on 5 hectares, continues to produce some of the region’s most iconic wines, notably from the Trousseau grape variety.
Without being bound by any specific set of guidelines, Lucien and Vincent Aviet practise sustainable viticulture. Truly sustainable. Hand-harvested grapes, vinification using indigenous yeasts, and no additives other than a limited use of sulphites. Their wines display a style of great sincerity and are deeply rooted in the spirit of the Jura terroir.
The temple of Trousseau
The Bacchus winery produces 50% red wines and 50% white wines from old vines. Ranging in age from 30 to over 60 years, they are all of mass-selection origin. Lucien Aviet and his son are renowned for their expertise in the Trousseau grape variety. Wines made from this grape variety remain benchmarks for all wine lovers. It must be said that the terroir of Montigny-Lès-Arsures is particularly well-suited to the cultivation of this grape variety. Situated on Triassic and Lias marl, and on the iridescent marl of the Keuper, the soils consist of limestone scree favourable to vine cultivation. The topographical and climatic characteristics add a considerable advantage to this geological setting. Indeed, this amphitheatre on the western slope of the Jura is sheltered from the harsh temperatures of the high mountains and the humidity of the lowlands.
Wines that hold memories
The famous ‘Cuvée des Géologues’ and ‘Cuvée des Docteurs’ bear witness to Lucien Aviet’s close bond with his student friends from the University of Besançon. It was they who helped him in his early days, notably by volunteering to harvest his grapes. It is to this long-standing friendship that we owe the names of the cuvées, reflecting a preference for Trousseau in one case, and for Poulsard and Chardonnay in the other.
The wines tasted
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Red-Tailed Melon 2020
“An original, crystal-clear, aromatic and lively wine. On the nose, there are citrusy, almost exotic notes, white flowers, hints of almonds and fresh hazelnuts, and a touch of aniseed. On the palate, it is pure and easy to drink, yet boasts a lovely body without compromising on freshness. A truly fine example of this indigenous grape variety, which has almost disappeared.“
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Trousseau 2020
“This Arbois Trousseau is incredibly appealing! … It’s a real treat from the very first sip, with aromas of raspberry, wild strawberry, redcurrant, pepper, nutmeg and clove. The fruitiness, structure and freshness of this wine invite a sense of cheerfulness and conviviality. A real winner!“
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Trousseau Rosière 2018
“This Rosière terroir, which is ideally suited to Trousseau, produces an Arbois of rare purity. How could one not be charmed by this alluring nose of crisp red berries, followed by hints of eucalyptus?! … The palate is juicy, with perfectly balanced body and structure. And what delicacy!“
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Trousseau Poussot 2017
“Le Trousseau Poussot is a testament to a great terroir capable of producing Arbois wines of remarkable intensity. The bouquet evokes notes of ripe black cherry and hints of cinnamon. The attack is marked by its fullness and vinous character. The palate is full-bodied and silky, finishing with a spicy undertone. Perfect with rabbit stewed with prunes.“
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Trousseau Nonceau 2018
“Yet another outstanding Trousseau terroir for this Arbois Nonceau cuvée … The plot consists of scree enveloped by a clay matrix, all resting on a layer of grey Lias marl. Here, the Trousseau displays astonishing richness and complexity on the palate. The elegance of the fruit (a blend of red and black fruits) is perfectly complemented by a silky, well-balanced tannic structure. Best left to age for a few years. Decanting is essential.“
Lucien Aviet – Arbois Vin Jaune, Confrérie Cuvée 2013
“The bouquet is striking in its power and complexity: fresh walnuts, curry, dried fruit… Its roundness and opulence are matched only by its finesse and vigour: this combination is the hallmark of truly great wines. Its charm and smoothness are dazzling. The finish seems endless, with hints of spices and peated whisky.“
A few photos of the Caveau de Bacchus (Lucien Aviet)
