Julien Guillot, Le Clos des Vignes du Maynes

Julien Guillot’s Clos des Vignes du Maynes is an iconic estate in the Mâconnais region, in southern Burgundy. A pioneer in organic farming, the estate has also adopted biodynamics as the cornerstone of its approach.

Julien Guillot’s philosophy is to produce, using natural methods, joyful and approachable wines that reflect their terroir.

A story of pioneers

Le Clos des Vignes du Maynes is part of the Burgundian tradition of land registration by monks. Its origins date back to the year 910, when the Abbey of Cluny was founded by the Duke of Aquitaine. Owned by the Lords of Cruzille Castle, the estate subsequently passed through five generations of farmers before being purchased in 1952 by Pierre and Jeanne Guillot. The vineyard has never used chemicals and has always been cultivated with the utmost respect for the land. From the very beginning, Julien Guillot’s grandfather decided to produce wines using organic farming methods, without chemicals, weedkillers, insecticides or sulphur. His father, Alain, subsequently took over the estate, upholding the same philosophy. Working at the Beaujeu school alongside Susanne Michon, Xavier Florin, Claude and Lydia Bourguignon and Pierre Rabhi, he was deeply involved in the legislative side of things and, as President of the National Federation of Organic Agriculture (FNAB), he was responsible for securing the signature of Philippe Vasseur, Minister of Agriculture, on the recognition of the AB logo and all the specifications. It was in 1998 that Julien arrived at Clos des Vignes du Maynes, where he introduced the first biodynamic preparations. He officially took over the estate in 2001 and decided to convert all 7 hectares to this method of cultivation.

Wines that are cheerful and easy-going

Julien Guillot aims to produce wines meant to be shared, for wine lovers – wines that are approachable and easy to drink. To achieve this, his aim is to produce wines that are as naturally stable as possible. Taking risks during the winemaking process must not result in any major flaws, whilst keeping levels of volatility and reduction under control.

Julien Guillot is deeply committed to the mouthfeel, the texture of the wine, its silkiness and velvety smoothness. He loves the salty note on the finish, which brings a crystalline minerality and pairs perfectly with fine cuisine. He seeks out finishes that reflect their terroir, in other words, ones that are as authentic as possible. Granite, limestone, white clay – it is essential that the geology is reflected in every wine. The grape variety is ultimately secondary; it complements the terroir, serving merely as a vehicle.

Biodynamics, the cornerstone of Clos des Vignes du Maynes

With a view to further improving the soil and the plants, the first trials in biodynamics were carried out in 1998. By the second year, the results were impressive, with a surge in organic matter, both in terms of flora and fauna. For nearly 20 years now, Clos des Vignes du Maynes has been working in harmony with the four seasons in this way. The aim of biodynamics is to support the plant throughout the year by carrying out specific, tailored tasks. In autumn, organic matter decomposes. In spring, it is the remobilisation of this matter, with its transformation into leaves, sap, flowers and fruit. The aim is to support these different stages with preparations such as horn manure, silica, horsetail, herbal teas, etc.

Semi-carbonic vinification method

At Clos des Vignes du Maynes, the winemaking process is carried out in the most natural way possible. We use indigenous yeasts, with no sulphur, no enzymes and no chemical additives whatsoever. The wooden vats are washed beforehand and brushed with Burgundy marc to reactivate the yeast flora. During the manual harvest into small crates, the grapes are sorted very carefully to avoid damaging them. The aim is for each bunch to arrive in the vat in the best possible condition. For the red wines, Julien Guillot’s team then carries out semi-carbonic maceration using a well-defined method, the culmination of three generations’ work. The principle is to create a sort of mille-feuille composed of several layers of whole bunches and destemmed grapes. The latter produce an initial juice which drains off, then begins to ferment, triggering the start of yeast activity (with the sugars) that will yield that sought-after silky texture in the wines. At the same time, as the vat is saturated with carbon dioxide, intracellular fermentation yields those elegant, floral aromas of roses and peonies typical of Pinot Noir. After four or five days, a very light, minimal pumping-over is carried out, accompanied by a punch-down of around 20 centimetres at the top of the vat. The aim is to release the sugars and yeasts, and this marks the start of a long fermentation process that we can then monitor closely.

All the reds are then aged in barrels or casks (not new). The wines are left undisturbed until Easter. Racking is carried out during the waning moon, to ensure the lowest possible level of activity. All this is done with a view to avoiding the need to filter the wines. They are then blended in bulk and left to rest for two full moons. There are four bottlings throughout the year: one in April for the 910 cuvée, one in July if certain wines are a little delicate, the weather is warm and they already taste good, one before September and a final one in December, with the magnums and jeroboams of the Auguste cuvée. For the reds, barring any mishaps, no sulphur is added before bottling.

White wines, on the other hand, are aged in large containers to preserve their freshness and carbon dioxide and avoid any woody notes.

A few photos of Clos des Vignes du Maynes